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Up, down, shake it all around

Up, down, shake it all around

Italy

Indulge me for a moment while I focus on the selfie stick.

The selfie stick is one of those items that are at the same time dreadfully touristy and incredibly useful. The benefits are obvious – not all friendly tourists will take a nice pic of you – and yet we still hesitate to buy one, not wanting to join the throngs wandering about, sticks in the air, heads bobbing about.

Our friend Ruth has a selfie stick; she brought it with her on our trip to Italy.

Our friend Ruth is an intelligent, funny and capable woman, however mastering the selfie stick seems to be a skill that has totally bypassed her. And nothing – nothing – on this trip to Italy has made us laugh so hard, so loud, so tears streaming down our face shrieking, as Ruth taking our photo using the selfie stick.

We don’t get it out much because it takes a short discussion on appropriateness and importance of the proposed site followed by around 45 minutes of assembly. In fact until today we’d only used it three times: for a photo at the Roman forum with Ruth’s head chopped off, a photo at the Spanish Steps without the Spanish Steps in it and a photo of our black shapeless head silhouettes in front of some blurry backlit columns somewhere in Rome.

The thing is, I really don’t know how it always goes so wrong what with all of the instructions the rest of us provide for Ruth to follow. Particularly Tim. Because wives love it when their husbands shout a string of conflicting instructions at them. Take this morning when we went for our fourth attempt with the selfie stick on a cute little canal bridge in Venice. After the assembly process, Ruth lifted the stick, and it was on.

“Tilt it back!”

“Straighten it up!”

“Lift it higher!”

“Move your head!”

“You move your head!”

“Lower!”

“Higher!”

“Sideways!”

“The other sideways!”

“Wait, I need my sunglasses!”

“Don’s not in!”

“I said straighten it up!”

“Tim’s too tall!”

“I can’t hold this pose much longer!”

“Tilt it 80 degrees left!”

“Sure, let me get my protractor out!”

“Wait, I’ll take my hat off.”

“I can’t find the button!”

“It’s on the bottom!”

“It’s on the side!”

“Now!”

“Now!”

“Now!”

Click.

And so we have added to our collection a photo on a Venice bridge, three smiling faces and Don sliced perfectly down the middle.

Conversations in Venice

Conversations in Venice

“Where are we going?”

“I want to go back to that shop.”

“Is this the right way?”

“I don’t know.”

“I think we’ve been here before, I recognise that restaurant.”

“No, that’s not the same one.”

“Piazza San Marco – how did we end up out here?”

“Turn around, we’re going back in.”

“Again?”

“We turned left here, perhaps try turning right this time.”

“This is the third time we’ve been over this bridge.”

“No, that’s not the same one.”

“Is this our hotel?”

“Yes, but it’s in a different place now.”

“We’re back in San Marco.”

“Yes, I can see that. Let’s try this alley.”

“Ok, it has shops in it.”

“That’s a nice building.”

“We saw it ten minutes ago.”

“I think we’re close.”

“How about this shop?”

“No, that’s not the same one.”

“It has the same things in it.”

“Not quite.”

“We haven’t seen this bit before.”

“Yes we have, four times.”

“Here it is!”

“No.”

“Here’s the restaurant where we had dinner last night.”

“No, that’s not the same one.”

“We’re back in San Marco again.”

“Yes, but now I know where we were going wrong.”

“You do?”

“Do you?”

“You’re never going to find….”

“Here it is, do you want to wait outside for me?”

So I did some exercise

So I did some exercise

As most people know, at home in Australia I go to the gym a lot – perhaps four times a week. I lift weights, do some classes, some PT. I also run at least once a week – more if there’s a run we’re training for. But since leaving Australia I’ve done nothing. Sure, I’ve walked a bit, and I made an attempt at going to one of the hotel gyms. But in truth I’ve spent the better part of five weeks eating, drinking and sitting on my arse people watching.

Which is why when Ruth suggested I join her for Saturday morning fitness class I thought that would be a mighty fine idea.

What Ruth failed to mention was that this was a dance fitness class, where each song is a ‘routine’ – ballroom, Latin, jazz, swing and more.

I met the instructor Vicki when we walked in. She seemed extremely happy, perhaps because she knew she was about to be considerably entertained.

“Good luck,” she said to me, “just have some fun, and perhaps don’t use your arms so much. It’s easier to just concentrate on the steps without getting the arms involved.”

Now people who know me know that I hate being the beginner; I like to be an expert immediately. So despite Vicki’s warning, I would be using both my arms and my legs thank-you, and I would be all over this FitSteps dancing caper by the end of the warm up.

This was partially true; the warm-up was slow and steady and I managed to keep up and on top of arms and legs. Sorted.

And then we began.

“They’ll be doing this one on Strictly tonight,” said Happy Vicki, breaking into some sort of a waltz samba grapevine movement that quite frankly should have been left back in the 80s where it belongs. And all around me women and men also broke into the waltz samba grapevine movement, dancing around and over and on top of me as I step-touched in mild panic. Once I pulled myself together it was all good – except that my legs were half a beat behind and heading the wrong way, my grapevine was more wine than vine and my arms were circling my head more sprinkler than swan.

Next to me Ruth was dancing away gracefully, in time and on step, not a care in the world other than making sure she steered clear of the dangerous Australian.

“And step turn cha-cha-cha, rumba to the rhythm jump. Left foot turn cha-cha-cha keep it up you’re doing great.”

This was a lie. I was not doing great. And I’m not used to not doing great, so I would try harder and damn it I would be a FitSteps expert and amaze everybody with how quickly I picked it up.

“To the left,” Vicki called as she sashayed across the stage, and I sashayed to the right and crashed into a woman in a purple leotard.

“And turn, and turn, and arms and turn,” she called, and I found myself facing the back of the room arms up and everybody else facing the front, arms down.

“Box step!” she yelled at one point.

“Got this already,” I thought, only to find myself running into the woman in purple again. Apparently a rumba box step is completely different to a waltz box step.

The only one where I managed to barely hang on was the jazz number, because there were jazz hands. And if you can master jazz hands it doesn’t matter where your feet go.

“This next one’s a country number, let’s have some fun with it,” she said as the class neared the finish. Yes, let’s, I thought as I gave up all hope and just walked in the general direction that everybody else was heel digging and cow poking.

As we left the hall, I gave Vicki the thumbs up to indicate yes, great fun, thanks.

Ruth was very kind.

“You did ok,” she told me, “considering it was your first time.” Very kind.

Tomorrow I might go for a run. In a straight line along a path, turn around, come back again.

I can always throw in some jazz hands when I’m coming down the street on the home stretch.

Friends

Friends

When we walked through the glass doors at Heathrow airport we were greeted with a massive sign announcing ‘Welcome home Don and Ang’, a welcome home balloon and much shouting, waving and screaming.

This was followed by a full English at the local cafe with five adults and a child all talking non-stop over under and through each other. Once home we were surprised by a collage of old photos taken over the previous 25 years. All day we stayed firmly ensconced in the backyard, only moving to the couch when the sun went down, talking all manner of shit; from Dr Who to American politics to home renovation to ‘remember when we….’ We did this for a solid six hours, breaking for a three hour nap before reconvening for another five hours.

24 hours later and we’re still talking.

We spent a lot of time with these friends when we first met in 1992, but when we left the UK to return to Australia, there was no email, no Facebook, no mobile phones to keep in touch. Eventually these connections were made, but in reality, since 1993 we’ve only been face to face four times.

And yet we are all so, so close. We have ridiculous memories, we were there when couples were formed, we drank together in many an English pub, we joined a local softball team together, we even got on board somewhat with their amateur theatre group. And we lived in each others’ pockets in a cheap share house.

So yes, we may have only seen each other a handful of times since we left, but Don and I have close, beautiful relationships with our UK friends that we absolutely treasure. It’s incredible and pretty awesome.

Now, must finish up writing because they’re still talking and I’m missing the conversation!

Moments

Moments

New York

My posts and photos have mostly been about the fun time we’ve been having while on this trip. The cocktails, the shopping, the eating, the tourist sites and experiences.

However we’ve also seen things that have stirred us. Had quieter moments when we’ve been moved. Seen things that have left us inspired. Read about events that have outraged us.

In Washington DC and Philadelphia, museums and galleries detail the fights for civil and women’s rights, assassinations, marches and protests, wars and the history of slavery. Memorials and statues have inspiring and thoughtful quotes from leaders, writers, activists and everyday people. The memorials in DC were particularly powerful – the platoon of soldiers in the Korean War Veterans Memorial frozen in another time, Arlington Cemetery, the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial.

And then today in New York we visited the 9/11 Memorial and Museum. It would be impossible not to be moved at this site; and being something that occurred in our lifetimes made it all the more powerful. Two huge fountain pools representing the footprints of the towers, the museum with heartbreaking photos and remnants of the tragedy. We both had tears when we left the gallery where pictures of the victims covered the walls.

Our trip so far has had us amazed, happy, inspired, angry and sad. I think that’s all part of seeing the world.

Listen to me

Listen to me

New York

We do love an audio tour.

We’ve done three now; Alcatraz, Pampanito submarine in San Francisco and today in New York at the Intrepid Museum.

Every time we do an audio tour it tends to take up quite a large chunk of time. To start with, we like to synch our audio so that we’re hearing exactly the same thing at the same time.

“And go.”

“Whoops, sorry, missed it.”

“Hang on, I’ll go back. Wait, no, don’t start yours!”

Once that’s done you’d think it would be fairly straightforward. You’d think.

“Did you hear that about the solitary confinement?” I loudly asked Don at Alcatraz.

Nothing.

“Don! Don! Don! Don!”

“What?”

“Did you hear that? About the solitary confinement?”

“That was ages ago.”

“Well if you’d heard me when I….did you just turn your thing off?”

“Yes! Because you’re talking to me!”

“Now we need to synch again!”

The eerie quiet of Alcatraz continually shattered by two Australian tourists repeatedly yelling at one another.

Today’s tour was on the Intrepid – an aircraft carrier with a fabulous collection of planes as well as a space shuttle. Yes, it was awesome. The audio tour was the ‘press a button and hold it to your ear at particular exhibits’ type. Technically we should have been able to talk and listen.

“Have you listened to the bit about the bell?” I asked.

“Yes.”

“Ok, hang on let me listen then we can discuss. Where are you going?”

“To look at the propellor.”

“You can’t listen to that story yet, you have to wait for me to catch up.”

“Ok, well I’ll be over here in the space capsule.”

“Space capsule! I’m coming with you!”

We got so caught up in the space capsule, not to mention the Harrier jump jet, the Top Gun tomcat, multiple helicopters and the space shuttle Enterprise, that we completely forgot we even had the audio devices until they had to stop us at the exit and take them from around our necks.

Yep, audio tours. Worth every cent.

All that plus a marching band

All that plus a marching band

Philadelphia

We didn’t really know much about Philadelphia, so on our first full day we chose to wander our way to the art gallery and back and just see what we could find along the way. And this is how Philadelphia proved to us that sometimes you just happen to be in the right place at the right time.

Let me present the evidence.

Exhibit A: The Discoveries

On our walk we stumbled upon: the murals of Philadelphia, the Amor statue, the Rodin Museum, ‘create your own monument’ pedestals, a pop-up dance exhibition by Philadelphia’s premier ballet company, the quirky ‘Your Move’ sculpture of giant board game pieces, a dancing fountain, Philadelphia’s city hall (the largest in the world), and the impressive Washington Monument Fountain.

Exhibit B: The Weather

It was the most beautiful, beautiful day. The colour of the sky was a clear, bright blue, not one cloud anywhere. It wasn’t humid, it wasn’t hot, it was bright and sparkling and beautiful. People were out and about and happy; I like to think because the weather was perfect.

Exhibit C: The Food

A cute little organic bakery with (real) coffee, spicy Cajun at the Reading Terminal markets, sneaky handmade chocolate truffles and a sensational local Greek restaurant.

Exhibit D: The Parade

And the pièce de résistance? As we walked back down Benjamin Franklin Parkway, we saw a marching band. A big, bold, red and white, loud, feathers in their caps, brass blaring, marching band. We stood in the sunshine bouncing along as they marched past. They were followed by a whole parade, including flag twirling rainbow girls, vintage cars, dancers, streetcars and a six banjo double accordion band. Turns out it was Pulaski Day – the annual parade honouring the Polish patriot known as the ‘father of the American Cavalry’.

Philadelphia – right place, right time.

Sheila’s footsteps

Sheila’s footsteps

Washington DC

Everywhere we go in Washington I think of my grandmother. She lived here for 17 years, working at the Australian Embassy, so I can’t help but be aware that I’m walking down the streets she walked along and seeing all of the places she saw.

Of course, we’re focussed on the tourist parts of the city, whereas Nanny lived the city. The streets and suburbs are familiar to me because of her stories – DuPont Circle, Georgetown, Foggy Bottom and “Mass Ave”. Nanny arrived just after JFK was assassinated, and was here for the celebration when Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin walked on the moon, through Vietnam War protests and during the Washington riots following Martin Luther King Jr’s assassination. She attended the theatre, ballet and opera, and had many stories of outrageous parties – with Embassy staff, naval officers and “the guys from the FBI”.

On our first day here we walked past the former Australian Embassy, now the Embassy of Peru. When Nanny arrived in Washington DC with no money to get home to Australia, they gave her a job. She was still there when they built the new Embassy on Scott Circle – that’s her fooling around during the ground-breaking ceremony. She worked in this new building for over ten years; until it was time to come home to Australia.

I can see Nanny here in DC – it’s her style of place. All classy Victorian and Tudor style homes, and the elegance of Embassy Row. Yesterday I caught the Metro to Arlington and found the first house Nanny lived in. It hasn’t changed a bit. Tomorrow I’m going to find the other house she lived in – it’s only up the road from where we’re staying. On Mass Ave!

I can’t go into any of these places – the Embassies or the homes – but I can stand on the sidewalk and imagine her with her fancy high heels, designer handbag and a big smile on her face.

She was quite a woman.

Three visit the Air and Space Museum

Three visit the Air and Space Museum

Washington DC

Our friend Gab has joined us in DC; she too is an aeroplane geek. So it was always going to be a big day when two aviation geeks and a space science nerd went to the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum.

There are two ways to approach the Air and Space Museum.

Gab and I were starstruck, and a little confused at first, starting at the wrong end of the space race and working our way backwards from the moon landing. We soon got our bearings and marvelled and admired every slick, gorgeous piece of aeronautic machinery that we approached. We were amazed and bedazzled as any true plane spotter would be, overwhelmed by rockets, planes and spacecraft. Gab said “Beautiful” a lot, I said “Wow” a lot.

And then there was Don.

We lost him immediately on entry, spotting him every now and then as he darted between rockets and satellites. But a pattern soon emerged. As Gab and I wound our way through the displays, looking up, looking down, Don would suddenly appear in front of us at random moments.

“Oh my God,” he exclaimed at one point, “it’s a V2! Do you know what that is?”

“A V2?” I suggested.

“It’s a V2! Let me tell you about the V2…” and then he was gone.

And then he was back.

“Is that what I think it is?” he bounded across to a spacey looking spherical object.

“The Death Star?” asked Gab, only half joking.

“It’s the Telstar! Let me tell you about the Telstar….” and then he was gone.

And then he was back.

“Do you know how long I’ve wanted to see the original 1903 Wright Flyer?”

“Ever since you were a…”

“Ever since I was a little boy…” and then he was gone.

Back and forth as though attached to us by an elastic band.

It was one of the best museums any of us had ever been to. So much to see that by the end of our visit, Gab and I had walked roughly 37km.

And Don had run 163.

Imagine my surprise

Imagine my surprise

Chicago

Ambling is hard work. Although I suspect we’re not really very good at it yet. We have arisen every day so far on this ‘slow-paced’ holiday with a full day’s agenda, pausing only for food (which is hardly a pause). This week in Chicago we’ve been up buildings, inspected fountains, walked for miles in museums, criss-crossed parks, undertaken tours and indulged in cocktails.

So imagine my surprise when Don suggested we amble down Michigan Avenue – the Magnificent Mile – and look at the shops.

Yes, you read that correctly. The shops.

I agreed immediately and shoved him out the hotel door before he could change his mind. A world of retail awaited me.

There wasn’t much for me in Gap. I found myself loitering around the menswear section for ages while Don ducked in and out of the dressing room trying on clothes.

There wasn’t much for me in Nike. I found myself loitering around the menswear section for ages while Don inspected the hightops.

There wasn’t much for me in Zara. I found myself loitering around the menswear section for ages while Don ooh-ed and aah-ed over men’s accessories.

There wasn’t even much for me in Whole Foods. I found myself loitering with my lunch while Don inspected the snack aisles.

We were on Michigan Avenue for three and a half hours. Don bought himself two pairs of jeans, a nice blue scarf, a chocolate bar, a huge bottle of soda water and a hunk of cheese. I bought myself a coffee.

I’m ok with this, truly. My time will come.

Because when we hit our next city, I shall have a girlfriend!